Formerly known as the shepherds' path, the Haute traversée de Belledonne (Belledonne high crossing) was marked out in 2018. Situated in the southeast of France, the Belledone is a spectacular mountain range. The Federation Des Alpages set up the project to highlight Belledonne’s pastoral heritage. And, it was a success. This itinerary takes you across the whole Belledonne range to its forests, mountain pastures, ridges and summits. Personally, I find it quite incredible to think that it’s possible to cross an entire mountain range without being an experienced mountaineer.

The Belledonne range is one of the main crystalline massifs of the Alps, like the Écrins or the Mont-Blanc massif. 80 kilometres (49.7 mi) long and 15 kilometres (9.3 mi) wide, the range isn’t crossed by any roads. It’s really a mountain as it should be: wild, magnificent and rough with infinite possibilities of adventure. Belledonne has 90 peaks over 2,500 metres (8,200 ft) and 70 lakes. On this traverse, you’re never far from an impressive peak or a crystal clear lake. You’ll probably have the chance to see lots of ibex too as the Belledonne is home to one of the largest ibex populations in the Alps. They were reintroduced in the 1980s on the neighbouring mountain of Rissiou.

The GR 738 is a demanding hike so you need to be in good shape. Every stage includes more than 1,000 metres (3,280 ft) of climbing. Stages 2, 3 and 4 end at unsupervised huts and don’t include any refreshment spots. The second part of the route is a bit more comfortable. Stage 5 and 6 finishes at refuges where you can eat and buy a picnic for the next day. Stage 7 concludes at Le Recoin, where you can fill yourself up and get food for the last stage. Regardless how many stages you do, make sure you study the map and bring enough food. You’ll need strength to make it through the journey.

Each stage ends at a place where you can spend the night, be it a hut, a refuge or a bivouac area. The unsupervised huts operate on a first come, first served basis. Even if you plan to use them, it’s worth bringing a tent as there may not be any space left, especially in summer. I’ve included more details about accommodation in the Tour and highlight descriptions.
Bivouacking is allowed on the whole route between 7pm and 9am, except for the Alpage de la Pra area. If you want to camp there, ask at the refuge to find out where you are allowed to camp.

Aiguebelle station, where the GR 738 starts, is easily accessible by TER train from Chambéry and Grenoble. If you decide to arrive in Aiguebelle the day before your hike, you can find several accommodation options as well as a bivouac area in the allée de Chaventon. For more information (in French), please visit this link: hautetraverseedebelledonne.fr/hebergements/aiguebelle-aire-de-bivouac

There are several ways to come back to Grenoble from Vizille, final destination of the GR. From Monday to Saturday, bus 70 takes you from the ‘Place du Château’ stop, where the GR ends, to Jarrie-Vizille train station in less than 10 minutes. From there, you can take a TER (regional train) to Grenoble train station in 15 minutes. On Sundays, take the T75 bus instead. Whatever your day and time of arrival, you’ll find convenient public transport. For more information, visit: moovitapp.com/grenoble-3200/poi/en

I recommend crossing the Belledonne between mid-June and mid-September. This way you avoid snow on the passes and summit and can take advantage of the refuges. If you want to do this GR at the beginning of June or after the end of September, bring the necessary equipment (crampons and ice axes in particular). Some passages become quite tricky.

Before you start, I recommend visiting the Espace Belledonne website: espacebelledonne.fr. You will find information (in French) on the natural, historical and cultural heritage of the range you are about to cross.

I wish you a great adventure!